GTR 2 – FIA GT Racing Game is a sports car racing simulator developed by Blimey! Games and SimBin Studios (later Sector3 Studios) for the x86 PC and is a sequel to GTR. Since its release in September 2006, it has received widespread acclaim. The game simulates the 2003 and 2004 FIA GT Championship racing series.
Update 2015-02-26: I’ve been changing up my FFB settings in iRacing lately after realizing that linear ffb resulted in such low force strengths (to avoid clipping) that I wasn’t really feeling the road anymore. The ffb changes were just too subtle. So, because I have a low-end wheel, a G27, I’m now using non-linear ffb and doing the usual binary-search to find the optimal force strength to avoid clipping. I’m doing this only because of my relatively low-end, entry-level G27. I expect the recommended usage for higher strength wheels (T500s/T300s, Fanatec ClubSports, Accuforce Pro, etc.) should still use linear ffb.
Update 2015-02-26 – 2: For the record, a binary search is one where you take your current value, determine whether it’s too little or too much, and then double it (when too little) or halve it (when too much), and repeat that process at each new level to dial in on your optimal value. For example, for iRacing force strengths I might start out at 32, decide that’s too much and go to 16 (half of 32), decide that’s too little and go to 24 (16 + 8 which is half of 16), decide that’s too much and go to 20 (24 – 4 which is half of 8), decide that’s too little and go to 22 (20 + 2 which is half of 4), decide that’s too little and go to 23 (22 + 1 which is half of 2), decide that’s too much and go to 22.5 (22 – 0.5 which is half of 1). This is a real example I just did in iRacing a few minutes ago on the Mazda MX-5.
Update 2015-02-26 – 3: Nvidia users should check out these threads: iRacing graphic optimizations for NVIDIA users, Guide: nVidia iRacing Antialiasing (AA) Settings, NVIDIA SLI Compatibility results. The second guide about AA gives some good settings for Nvidia Inspector (I use in-game 4x AA with Nvidia Inspector AA – Mode “Enhance” and AA – Setting “8xS [Combined: 1×2 SS + 4 MS]”. Read the thread for what they mean). The third thread is about SLI and getting rid of microstuttering (I use Nvidia Inspector “SLI Compatibility Bits” = “0x00402015” per the thread). It’s not perfect but it’s better than in-game AA and should give higher performance.
iRacing Force Feedback Settings
I’m a big fan of iRacing sim racing and I frequent their forums quite a bit. I’ve seen a number of posts, over time, on the iRacing forums about people asking for the right force feedback settings for their wheels. As it turns out, this info in its complete form is harder to come by then you might think so I’ve decided to post everything I know and have implemented for my Logitech G27 for force feedback in iRacing…
Update 2014-12-03: I have a new, better, simpler fix for this. Earlier this year the original solution I had stopped working. The problem is the electrical contacts (little circular pads for each button on the inside of the fob) were slowly disintegrating. You can tell because the black part is starting to wear through. While googling for fob fixes I discovered some companies were selling plastic inserts with circular metal electrical plates that bridge the original pads. They work because they distribute the electrical charge more evenly and more widely across each electrical pad thus resulting in a better connection. I took a hint from this and simply super-glued little circular pieces of common, household aluminum foil to the electrical contacts. It worked! It worked like it was brand new! I was so impressed it worked that well. That was a few months ago and it’s still going strong so I hope this helps someone!
Fixing your car key fobs with a knife, scissors, elastic, paper and super glue!
So, my car key fob buttons have been deteriorating progressively ever since I got my car four years ago. So, I used a knife to pry open the fob by the seam along the edges. I used super glue around the metal edges of the battery holder, “clamping” metal connections down using an elastic, and, when that was all dry, cut some paper to the size of the fob, put it behind the battery to add additional pressure on the connections, and closed the fob back up. Voila! Fob repaired!